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GAETAN RAYMOND

Birth date: 25/04/1981

Residence: Annecy, French Alps

The age of starting climb: 13 years old

Expetise: Ice-climbing, dry-tooling, mountaineering

Facebook Athlete page:
https://www.facebook.com/gaetan.dry.tooling/

Blog:
http://gaetanraymond.wordpress.com/

TV show:
http://dai.ly/x3a7o1y
http://dai.ly/x15p9dv
https://youtu.be/8xD-hZBKzPk

 

Experiences:
20 years rock-climbing and mountaineering
15 years ice-climbing
10 years dry-tooling


Whats your story?

Since I was born, I was going in the mountain with my parents, my 2 brothers and 1 sister. Then I went up alone above my home town in the middle of the Alps. First trail running then higher, climbing and mountaineering. After many years of practicing those sport I became stronger and focused on the futuristic sport of dry-tooling.
My passion is ice-climbing but nowadays winter are warmer with less ice and if you want to climb hard stuff you have to go on the rock!
Today I have a baby boy and enjoying the fatherhood. Still climbing stronger with many exciting projects to come!!

 

What do you enjoy doing in your spare time?

Reading guide books, multipitches and gullies with her girlfriend and packing for a next ascent!

 

What is your favorite aspect of climbing?

Having fun with friends and fighting against getting pumped!

 

Whats your most memorable climbing experience?

Climbing the Grandes Jorasses North Face (French Alps, Mont Blanc massif). 1200m, M9 mixed climbing with a bivy on the wall in the middle of the face and 12d pitches to finish!

 

Whats your recent climbing accomplishment?

The most difficult route in the World, A line above the sky, D15 in Italy.50m roof!! Only one try per day was allowed since it is so hard that you dont have enough energy to try one more time in a day. Did it the second day before had to leave!

 

Where is your favorite climbing place? Why?

Chamonix! Because it has everything, from bouldering, sport climbing, ice climbing, multipitches, gullies, free riding to dry-tooling! In a remote place at high altitude.

 

What colors you like best?

Red, blue and orange

 

Whats your favorite food?

Pastas, bread, ham and cheese like a real French. Not so much candies

 

Competitions:
3rd at the French ice-climbing championship
2nd in 2013 and 4th in 2014 at the Kandersteg (Switzerland) ice climbing festival
6 participations in ice-climbing world cup in 2012 and 2013
Winner of the famous contest Dry-Tooling Style tour in 2010
Organization of the Dry-Tooling Style tour since 2011


New routes and FAs:
Main developer of the hardest and biggest cliff for dry-tooling in the world (Usine in France)
Usine presentation:
https://youtu.be/D35il6b_Y7o ,http://vimeo.com/55255484 and
https://vimeo.com/86929951  
Bolted the hardest dry-tooling multipitch in the world (Bionic Agapi, 220m, D12)
Main character for the next biggest dry-tooling movie: Generation Dry (
https://youtu.be/rYWF6bGpqJQ)


Dry-tooling Accomplishments:
Onsigthing usually D12/D13
D11 Bionic Agapi, 220m (2 Alpes, French Alps) Opened ground-up and first ascent
D9 Byaisse ta culotte, 180m (Brian
çon, French Alps) First onsight ascent
D13
Next level (Usine, France)
D13 Castor et Pollux (Faverges, France)
Onsight
D13+ Tartare sabl
é (Usine,France) Second try
D14 Bichette (Usine, France)
D13+ DTS 2015 (Usine, France)
Flash
D13 DTS Man (Usine, France)
Onsight
D13 D
ébilos (Quintal, France)
D13 Spider man (Eptingen, Switzerland)
First try
D12+ Bananaz splitz (Naz, Switzerland)
Onsight

D14+ Tartare Sablé (Usine, France)
D15 The big traverse (Usine, France)
D14+ DTS Man (Usine, France)
Flash
D15 A line above the sky (Dolomites, Italy)
First try Hardest route in the world!!
https://youtu.be/kI4eho7K_bI
And many more


Mixed-climbing Accomplishments:
M8 Monomania, 1000m (Grandes Jorasses, France)
M9 Patrick Berthet (La Grave, France)
Onsight
M9 Direct Jarjatte (Chamousset, France)
Onsight
M10/D9 Bachi-bouzouk, 300m (Roche Parnal, French Alps)
Second free ascent
M8/WI6 New Generation, 300m (Gramussat, French Alps)
Onsight
M8/WI5+ Patrick Berthet, 250m (La Grave, French Alps)
Onsight
M9/WI6 L
Oeil dIlynx, 250m (Montriond, French Alps) Opened ground-up and first ascent
WI6+ San Valentino, 200m (La Sale, French Alps)
Second ascent
M9/WI6 Zauberflote, 250m (Dolomite, Italy)
Onsight
M11+/WI6+ Illuminati, 300m (Dolomite, Italy)
First try
M10 Sagagnass sound system, 150m (Brian
çon, French Alps) Second ascent
M11 On n
est pas des chinois, 150m (Chambéry, France) Opened ground-up and first ascent
M9/WI6 Lou Monstraou, 300m (Vercors, France)
First onsight free ascent video here:
http://dai.ly/xcb6tf
And many more


Ice-climbing Accomplishments:
Too many to write them here but many W5, 5+, 6 and 6+ in France and Europe!!
Ice-climbing is the basic to improve your skills and body to go further in mixed and dry-tooling